Used manufactured home inspection checklist

Pipeline Park team · Updated October 24, 2026

In short

Check the paperwork first (HUD label, data plate, title, liens, lot rent), then the parts that cost the most to fix: roof, floors, plumbing, electrical, frame and setup. Bring a flashlight, a moisture meter if you have one, and this list.

1. Paperwork before you drive out

HUD certification label on the outside of each section, and the data plate inside. No label usually means pre-1976 or a lost label; see mobile home vs. manufactured home.
Title. In most states a manufactured home has a certificate of title like a vehicle. Make sure the seller's name is on it and the serial number matches the data plate. If the home was converted to real property, ownership is in the land records instead.
Liens and back taxes. Ask directly, then check with the titling agency and county. Unpaid personal-property taxes on homes can follow the home.
In a community? Get the lot rent, what it includes, whether the buyer must be approved, and whether the home can stay or must be moved.

2. Roof and ceilings

Stains, sagging or soft spots in ceilings, especially along the marriage line of a double-wide and around vents and skylights.
From outside: rust or loose seams on a metal roof, or curling and missing shingles on a pitched roof. Ask when it was last coated or replaced.

3. Floors

Water damage to the subfloor is the most common expensive surprise. Walk every room, and press hard:

in front of the toilet, tub and shower,
under and in front of the kitchen and bathroom sinks,
in front of the water heater and washer,
near exterior doors.

Soft or spongy spots usually mean the decking needs replacing, and sometimes there's a leak that hasn't been fixed.

4. Plumbing

Look under sinks and, if you can, under the home. Gray plastic polybutylene supply pipe was common in homes from the late 1970s to the mid-1990s and is prone to failing; budget to replace it.
Run every faucet and flush every toilet. Check the water heater's age and that it's a model rated for manufactured homes.
Check the underbelly (the bottom board) for tears and sagging, which can hide leaks and let in pests.

5. Electrical and heating

Open the panel: look for scorch marks, double-tapped breakers and amateur additions. Some homes from the late 1960s and early 1970s were built with aluminum branch wiring, which needs special connectors.
Test outlets, lights and the furnace. Ask how old the furnace and any AC are and when they were last serviced.
Make sure there are working smoke alarms.

6. Frame, setup and exterior

Level. Doors and windows that stick, or cracks in walls at the corners of doors, can mean the home has settled off its piers.
Piers and tie-downs. Look under the skirting: piers should be solid, and the home should be anchored as local rules require.
Skirting, siding, windows, steps and decks. Cheap individually, but they add up.
If it must be moved, check the axles, hitch and frame, or confirm the mover will supply them. See what it costs to move a mobile home.

7. Turn it into a price

Write down a rough repair cost next to each problem, add moving and setup if it applies, and compare the total to what similar homes sell for in that area. A home that looks cheap can cost more than a newer one once the subfloor, plumbing and move are added in. A professional home inspection that covers manufactured homes is worth the fee on any home you're paying real money for.

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General information, not legal, tax or financial advice. Rules for titles, permits, moving and installation vary by state and county, so check with your local authorities.